A few times a year, usually in the winter months, I get a craving for a big ol’ chunk of roast beef and mashed potatoes. Conveniently for me, Lawry’s just opened a new Shanghai location at Wuyi Lu near my house so I immediately made plans to try it.

The food

My reservation was on a weekday afternoon so I got to enjoy their lunch set for an excellent value of ¥268. This includes salad/dessert, prime rib and sides, as well as a drink. You also get the option to choose sandwiches instead of the prime rib plate if you’re in the mood for a lighter meal. Not me though, I came here for the meat. I was also thrilled to see house wine being offered as part of the lunch set – these people know how it’s done.

After placing my order, I headed to the salad bar for some starters. There was a wide variety of vegetables and mixed salads to pick at, as well as cut fruit and cakes on the other side. There was nothing surprisingly delicious, but everything was freshly prepared and there was enough variety to be satisfying.

Once I finished my DIY salad, the hostess came over to ask if she could start serving my main plate. I saw them carve away at the silver serving cart across the room, a tad disappointed that they weren’t going to roll it over to my booth. At all the other locations I’ve been to, they usually bring the carver and serving cart to each diner’s table – that’s what makes it a Lawry’s!

Fortunately, the lack of presentation did not ruin my meal. The prime rib and mash were exactly what my stomach was craving. The plate was served hot, and the roast was rare and juicy, enveloped in a generous serving of gravy. The mashed potatoes were fluffy and buttery, just how I like it. Their Yorkshire pudding was also baked to perfection: crispy around the edges, and eggy at the bottom. The quality of the meat and sides are on par with their U.S. locations, and certainly a better value.

The service.

Given its very recent opening, it’s not surprising that service has room for improvement. I actually had to send back my plate the first time because the meat wasn’t rare enough for my liking. They had actually forgot to ask how well done I would like my meat when taking my order. In all fairness, they politely exchanged my plate and offered to give me an extra drink on the house. Once the staff become more familiar with their work and space, I trust that service will be more attentive.

The venue

The restaurant is brightly lit and renovated in a contemporary style that is unlike any Lawry’s location I’ve ever seen. It’s quite a refreshing update to their usual old-school mahogany and red chair look. The open dining room and seated booths are very spacious and photogenic. I can see this space attracting younger diners who might not choose to dine out at a prime rib chain from the 1930s. I can also imagine sentimental Lawry’s fans being upset with the cool new look.

The verdict.

\Without a doubt, the prime rib and sides are excellently executed at Lawry’s Shanghai. It may not look or feel like your usual Lawry’s with the old-school theatrics, but the prime rib and sides are spot-on. Service could be spotty at times when it gets busy, but they do it with a smile. For now, I would recommend Lawry’s for business lunches since they offer such a great value set as well as a comfortable space to chat. I’ll have to be back for a group dinner to see how well they cater to special events, and to see if they ever roll over the silver cart.

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