Scott Melvin has been a quiet force in the development of Shanghai’s restaurants. Originally sent over here by Jason Atherton to head up Table No. 1 in the Waterhouse Hotel, with his wife, pastry chef Kim Melvin, the couple then moved on to run The Commune Social. From there, Scott jumped into the hotel world, again with Atherton, as the London chef took on all the F&B at The Shanghai EDITION hotel: Hiya, Canton Disco and Shanghai Tavern, where Melvin usually spent his nights (days were doing Executive Chef stuff). Kim, meanwhile, went on to open Together, while also keeping a finger in the ice cream at Commune Social. They were never flashy but always much loved in the F&B community for just being nice people and damn good cooks. Now their decade in Shanghai is about over — Scott’s last day was New Year’s Eve; Kim is already in South Africa, where they will be settling. I asked Scott for some last words. See what he had to say, and who will be replacing him at the EDITION, after the jump!
From Scott Melvin:
Once in an interview at the start of my career in Table No 1, someone asked me to describe Shanghai in one word. It’s a word after a decade working and living here I would still use. That word is 'Random', part due to watching in awe the styrofoam or plastic bottle piled two stories high on bicycles on their daily recycling trips or the duct tape scooters flying in every direction possible or even the sounds of ice cream trucks around the city that were in fact street cleaning trucks. But mainly due to the fact that this city is always changing with a momentum that’s second to none around the world. And this I think also reflects on the food culture that has changed in so many ways through the decade. In many ways when Kim and I arrived, spring-heeled and ready to take on the challenge we never thought that getting produce would become so hard, and I still believe this is a problem today for many chefs in the city. But the improvement has been long and arguably slow and frustrating but after years of chefs pushing and working with each other it’s getting there… this all reflects on the types and fads that seem to be always sweeping the city throughout the years. But Shanghai is definitely becoming a major food city. The sheer scale and diverse restaurants are crazy, of course, some better than others. This brings me to something that Shanghai seems better at than most cities. As we arrived in Shanghai with absolute zero connections, there were a few people that not only helped but went out of their way to help us, with suppliers, farms, vendors, staff and other connections. Three names stand out: Fabrice Giraud, Stefan Stiller, and Alan Yu. Without their guidance who knows what would have happened. Kim and I instilled that generosity since and are always willing to share and help newcomers if needed. This is reflected in the Shanghai family we call F&Beasts that have grown together throughout our time in Shanghai, who have always been close, not only in hospitality but in play also. Watching these friends grow, have family, build business and become some of the city’s movers and shakers has been an honor. And this the hardest part of leaving, but I guess everyone is only a WeChat away. To put it bluntly, I feel, and I’m positive my wife would say the same, that we have been super lucky to have an opportunity that Shanghai has given us. Shanghai has been good to us. From Table No 1, The Commune Social and the Shanghai EDITION, and Kim’s Together — these places wouldn’t be successful without the teams that run them. There are too many names to mention here but I would like to point out a few who have been with us from the start: Rossi Weiwei, the current Shanghai Tavern head chef (pictured with Scott above), who has been my constant rock and talent from day one and has guided every restaurant and kitchen team with a professionalism and strength I couldn’t match; and Mike Ren, who is the busy little worker getting everything done for a demanding chef. Thanks, everyone for all your hard work I hope I wasn’t an ass too much :) So Goodbye Shanghai, it’s been super fun. Big love to all those who touched our lives. X
And that’s that. New decade, new chef. So who’s the new guy? Matt Worswick. According to The Caterer: "The news follows the announcement that Worswick would be leaving his role as head chef at the one-Michelin-starred Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park in Bagshot, Surrey, where he spent nearly four years. … Worswick said: "I’m thrilled to be working alongside Jason and the team at the Shanghai Edition. I’ve long admired Jason’s work, not only in London, but across the globe and I’m extremely excited to be a part of the team from February. My role will include overseeing the three F&B outlets and I’ll be based predominantly at Shanghai Tavern." … He was appointed to his first head chef position in 2013 at Glenapp Castle in Ballantrae, Ayrshire, where he won a Michelin star at the age of 26." A chef wunderkind then. Worswick starts at the EDITION in February. Best of luck to both the Melvins in South Africa and Worswick in his big new role at the 145-room hotel.